

But it will be an entirely different restaurant. It will be reincarnated on Friday, with the same name. And the man who once reigned as California's most creative chef and presided over the biggest party in San Francisco during the height of the greed-is-good '80s had closed up shop and left town.

Stars, Tower's shrine to the sexy rebirth of American regional cooking and all things glittery, had fallen. And in the basement, stuffed into a box with pictures of Willie Brown, David Letterman and Tommy Tune, was a white chef's jacket embroidered with the name Jeremiah Tower.
